Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
